This Father’s Day we’d like to give a shout-out to Dan McGettigan, father to me (Chelsea) and Sofia, by posting a few photos from the good ol’ days at ZAMAS. Enjoy and celebrate your father!
Susan, Sofia, and Chelsea at ZAMAS, circa 1993
Sofia and me playing on the beach circa 1993
Susan, Sofia, and Chelsea with goat in Cabaña 6, circa 1993
Dan, Chelsea, Sofia, and dalmatian, circa 1993
It’s turtle time and I could not be more excited. A couple of years ago a nest of turtles hatched from underneath one of our guests as she sunbathed. And last year we helped three or four nests of slightly misguided turtles who came crawling up to the restaurant looking for the ocean (maybe they were looking for chef Laura’s amazing appetizers). Either way, there is nothing more humbling and beautiful than holding a tiny life in your hand and rushing it to the ocean shore, trying to convince it to swim out to sea to find its first meal.***
Of the tiny lives I could be rescuing, turtles are among the most in need. Of every 100 turtle eggs that are laid, 1 makes it to adulthood. These are tough odds. On their way out to sea they risk being eaten by crabs and birds, not to mention a more modern threat of theirs: humans. Unfortunately, turtle soup is a delicacy in many homes. And then there’s our propensity to dig up their nests and expose the eggs to the elements, or scare off the mothers while they are laying their eggs because we want to get a closer look. Additionally, our bright lights drown out the moon, confusing the turtles, and leading them up to restaurants and houses, and across roads. Because we are now officially in turtle season, I’d like to provide a few friendly facts on how to enjoy sea turtles in Tulúm.
me with baby loggerheads at ZAMAS in 2004
Come across a nesting turtle?
* Do not walk on the beach with a flashlight (covering the light with your hand will mute the light but still allow you to see) or shine a light in the sea turtle’s face. The light may cause the female to abort the nesting process, or other sea turtles nearby may be discouraged from nesting if there are lights on the beach.
* Do not take pictures using flash. This high-intensity light can be even more disturbing than the flashlights.
* Stay clear and out of sight of the turtle until she begins laying eggs, otherwise you may scare her back into the sea. Once she begins laying her eggs, you may approach her discretely from behind.
* For your safety, stay away from the turtle’s head. Sea turtles, especially loggerheads, have very strong jaws and can harm you if provoked. (Loggerheads are the main nesters in Quintana Roo, as well as Green Sea Turtles)
* Do not handle the eggs or put any foreign objects into the nest. You can introduce bacteria or injure the eggs.
* Do not handle or ride the sea turtle. In addition to being illegal, you may injure the turtle or cause her to leave without finishing nesting.
* Do not disturb tracks left by turtles. Researchers use the tracks to identify the type of turtles that nested and to find and mark the nests.
* Do enjoy the experience, and remember it for the rest of your life.
loggerhead (national geographic)
Interested in the turtles? Check out these sites or come visit Tulúm May-October.
http://www.conserveturtles.org/seaturtleinformation.php
http://www.cesiak.org/ (while in Tulúm you can arrange to go turtle watching with a biologist through Cesiak)
more baby loggerheads (save the turtles)
***Since our first experiences with turtles, we have learned that the baby turtles must be rushed to the ocean as quickly as possible as they are only born with a set amount of energy. Once this energy is expended the baby turtles must find food immediately. Therefore, it is important not to keep them for any period of time
You can discover many things driving along the highway from Cancún to Tulúm. First, you’ll notice the lush greenery, interrupted by an all-inclusive hotel every fifteen meters or so. Second, you’ll notice the high volume of road kill and trash strewn about. You’ll laugh at the pickup truck filled to the brim with passengers, blasting rancheras. You’ll wonder why you are being passed on both the left and the right, and why most people drive in the shoulder.
What you may not notice while driving along this beautiful highway are the helpful signs guiding you and simultaneously providing you with life advice. You may not notice them because they are in Spanish, but they certainly notice you. They observe your driving and advise you how to improve it. In order to call your attention to these wonderful signs, I have braved this treacherous highway to take a closer look. This is what I found:
WITH RAIN INCREASE YOUR PRECAUTIONS
(a benign enough suggestion, common in many countries across the world)
PROTECT YOUR LIFE, DO NOT GET DISCTRACTED
(I can still text though, right?)
AFTER AN ACCIDENT NOTHING IS EVER THE SAME
(well, some things must be the same. this sign, for example)
EDITOR’S NOTE: Frtiz and his wife, Maria, have been coming to ZAMAS for years. This year he copied us on his letters to loved ones and he agreed to let us reprint here for the inside scoop from a seasoned Tulum Traveler. Muchísimas Gracias Fritz!
Cruising at 34,000 feet and still in Zamas heaven. It’s 5:00 and we just polished off our steak torta and empanadas de papa y queso, ordered with breakfast #2 at 11:30 this morning. The 4″ crescents of pastry-wrapped cheesy-potatoey goodness came with a thick pumpkin- colored dipping sauce, presumably achiote. Pansa llena, corazon contento. Rather than suffer the heinous buzz-kill of airline food, years ago we discovered the strategy of ¡Que Fresco! take out on getaway day.
Last night the party was on. For once, we almost overate, enjoying the night’s special, Laura’s killer jicama salad, old reliable pizza Margherita, and a whole fish, grilled al mojo de ajo.
Jimaca Salad
We had to share the perfect fish with new friends Giovanni and Tatiana, stylish young New Yorkers. He’s got movie-star looks and Colombian, rapid-fire Spanish to go with perfect English. Siberian immigrant Tatiana says that she learned her flawless New Yawk-ese as a defense mechanism against the bitches-from-hell at the private high school in which her father placed her. The tender slender was resplendent in short-short shorts, high-high heels and miles of leg in between. Dan knows all the cool kids. And they are sweethearts to boot.
Camilo Nu brought in a new musician, trombonist Ray David from salsa star Willie Colon’s band, upping the ante considerably. Apparently he works with them whenever he is available, as he knows the material quite well. The ‘bone reinforces the Latin Jazz element of the band’s Flamenco fusion, which has already been enhanced by Chucho Valdez’ student, pianist Gabriel from Argentina. They played late and we partied later, closing the evening with jazz on the iPod dock and sad good-byes at our crib. We have grown close to all the band members, especially our adopted sobrino Gabriel and brother bass player Gabo. I was able to sit in on bass two different nights with Gaby and Gabo’s Latin Jazz trio, kickin’ the funk on Herbie’s “Chameleon” both times. Drummer Angel (El Panda) and I locked in pretty damn good, IMHO. At least good enough that the Carioca bartendress at Luna Maya refused to let me pay for our Flor de Caña.
Dan tells us that we lucked out on the weather as this has been a very cool winter in The Yucatan. I had been concerned by Gabo’s Facebook postings about penguins in Tulum We got warm days and cool nights that many would consider perfect, but we would have preferred it a little warmer. The in-room ceiling fans were severely under-utilized. The mild weather at least eased the packing and schlepping of departure day. No complaints here, though, unlike the shivering locals who are totally unprepared for anything below 60 degrees F. Dice mi Gabi “Está haciendo un friazo, fijaté”.
It’s not a blog… it’s an iPhone travelogue.
This will be the last of my notes on our vacation. A few people have called it a blog, but I have been resisting that terminology, which implies a desire for a wide audience. We are only hoping to share the fun and happiness of our experience, in what turned out to be the best vacation ever, with family, who know much of what we speak, and with you other dear ones who haven’t had that good fortune. Thanks for reading. Oh, yeah, and thanks to Susana and Dan for their amazing creation, to Dan our endearingly brusque perfect host, and to their wonderful staff. As the Duke said “We love you madly”.
Maria y Fritz en ZAMAS
Diva and Driftwood
EDITOR’S NOTE: Frtiz and his wife, Maria, have been coming to ZAMAS for years. This year he copied us on his letters to loved ones and he agreed to let us reprint here for the inside scoop from a seasoned Tulum Traveler. Muchísimas Gracias Fritz!
Bueno, familia,
The jaunt down the coast was an absolute, utter success. Dan drove us 20 minutes south into the Sian Ka’an Biosphere, all the while regaling us with tales of who owns this place or that and what they’ve gone through to build there. The area is nominally parkland and the complexities of ownership and development in Mexico are daunting to say the least. After first missing the gate, we soon arrived at their property, opening the chained palm thatch gate and parking just within. From there a trail headed seaward, winding for a couple hundred yards through the jungle and culminating at the beach. The finest beach I’ve ever seen.
Sian Ka'an Reserve Beach
Sparkling white sand, clear blue-green water, and nobody in sight. The beach goes on forever. The sand slopes gently, smoothly into the sea and then continues uninterrupted to the depths. There are no rocks nor coral nor seaweed, just our own private playground for completely stress free frolicking.
Caribbean Sea in the Reserve
We followed Dan’s lead as he took off down the beach for his constitutional hike for a kilometer or so. Dan stopped to stretch at a convenient driftwood bench and we jumped into the Caribe. Nice. Next we proceeded as far as Yvette Mimieux’s grand property and then returned to the dueño’s place. He says that he hopes to get building permits in place soon and described the low impact plans he has for a casita there. Thank you, Dan, for sharing this special place. This has been a terrific vacation and today was the best day yet.
EDITOR’S NOTE: Frtiz and his wife, Maria, have been coming to ZAMAS for years. This year he copied us on his letters to loved ones and he agreed to let us reprint here for the inside scoop from a seasoned Tulum Traveler. Muchísimas Gracias Fritz!
Yesterday it occurred to me that there is a single, specific reason that I am so very comfortable in Tulum. It’s a re-dux of early ’seventies Santa Cruz, my salad days. At that time SC was an organic, hippie halcyon, full of friendly, healthy young women who threw my already active libido into overdrive. The town featured surfers, musicians, all manner of artists, organic gardeners, and seekers.
Governor Reagan had not yet closed the state’s mental hospitals, turning Pacific Avenue into another world altogether. It was Tulum foretold. I’ve seen more white-boy dreadlocks in a week here than in a year in Walnut Creek. It’s not a bad thing. This place is magnet for yoga, art, massage, exercise, and all kinds of creative endeavor and entrepreneurship in addition to being the loveliest spot we know. As a bonus, it’s the tropics, so the hippies bathe regularly, a vast improvement upon their northern brethren.
But it also has something that old Santa Cruz lacked: Mexican soul.
The mestizo culture, Mayan, Aztecan, Hispanic, passionate, profound, and proud is felt everywhere, in the Mayan locals and in the immigrants from other parts of the republic. It’s felt in waiters, shop keepers, entertainers, dive-guides, and passers-by. The warmth is not just the climate, it’s the culture.
As to matters culinary: yesterday chef Laura roasted cochita pibil (Yucatan suckling pig) all day in the domed pizza oven.
Cochinita Pibil w/ Greens & Pickled Onions
Low and slow, as God intended when He created barbeque. By noon the fragrance was beguiling, by dinner, intoxicating. Served with pickled onions, sautéed greens, and corn tortillas, it made me a happy boy indeed.
Beach report: yesterday was overcast and windy, we had the whole beach to ourselves for the morning workout. Mother Ocean slapped around for 20 minutes and we bailed. Today: nice, Surf’s up, by Caribe standards, but glassy. Great swim.
Dan has been wanting to show us his new beach property 20 minutes down the coastal road. We are outta here.
EDITOR’S NOTE: Frtiz and his wife, Maria, have been coming to ZAMAS for years. This year he copied us on his letters to loved ones and he agreed to let us reprint here for the inside scoop from a seasoned Tulum Traveler. Muchísimas Gracias Fritz!
Today is the first of our trip with full sunshine; Tulum so far having taken pity on my poor, carcinoma-prone gringo hide. We finished our morning salt-water immersion therapy session too late to enjoy the breakfast menu but are anxiously awaiting our torta de pollo as we tuck into melon water and guacamole…. Worth the wait, the sandwich is strips of grilled chicken on a toasted ciabatta roll with avocado, onions, tomato, chile, and some other succulent mystery flavor.
Last night the party started with Latin jazz at Zamas and continued in town. Dan hosted dinner for us and a few other guests, most notably Samantha, our new pal. Recently of NYC, this class of 2008 U of ‘Zona grad has found herself at loose ends when her month-old job at a local yoga resort suddenly vaporized. Dan set her up with lodging while she gets her bearings. Sensing, I suspect, a kindred spirit in Maria, she visited with us last night and joined us, splashing in the sea, this morning. What a doll, a Greek-Lebanese brunette with an unequivocal laugh and sharp intelligence to go with her great looks. If anyone can make it in Tulum with very limited Spanish it will be she.
Elise Maria Samantha at ZAMAS
We are fixin’ to jump back into our books, García Márquez’ biography is pretty thick but enormously engaging.
Besos pa’ todos,
Fritz
EDITOR’S NOTE: Frtiz and his wife, Maria, have been coming to ZAMAS for years. This year he copied us on his letters to loved ones and he agreed to let us reprint here for the inside scoop from a seasoned Tulum Traveler. Muchísimas Gracias Fritz!
Hi everybody,
Yesterday turned a little cooler, but still nice for swimming and the sea was very calm, one of the few days in which to break out the snorkel gear for use on the Zamas beach. We did so and wore ourselves right out, what with recovery from the previous evening’s festivities still in process.
Our days have started with my schlep to the restaurant for strong coffee to-go, that we enjoy on our deck with tropical fruit and terrific Mexican pastries, scored the previous afternoon in town.
After a little workout and shower, we make it to ¡Que Fresco! (the hotel’s restaurant) for breakfast #2. As always, the food is wonderful. Simple, clean flavors derived from impeccably fresh ingredients. As the Italians say, a seafood meal requires that your dinner had breakfast that day. 
Last night’s snapper filet was marvelous and this morning’s tomato and avocado omelet was even better, with black beans, perfect little chunks of succulent potatoes, corn tortillas, and the ubiquitous salsa fresca: tomatoes, onions, serrano chiles, and parsley. Spiced with judicious droplets of blazing hot salsa habanera, it made me a very happy boy.
We’re looking forward to tonight’s band: Gabriel Palatchi’s Latin-jazz
group, featuring three of the sidemen from Camilo Nu. The day awaits.
La fiesta continua.
Abrazos,
Fritz
Buenos días,
The first day of our time in Tulum was an unqualified success. Cosmic events that require more discussion than I am capable of in this space and terrestrial ones as well filled our hearts with joy. Lots of exercise in our room and on the beach, a jaunt into town, and great company in our post-prandial festivities got our stay at Zamas off to a wonderful start. The day started off rainy, then cloudy, and then, 20 minutes into our beach time, mostly sunny and warm. After a provisions run, we settled in for the evening at Zamas. At Maria’s request, Dan had said that they would be offering lobster that evening and, served with garlic, it was terrific. Featured musical artist was Camilo Nu, a flamenco/jazz/groove jam band. As soon as we arrived at the restaurant we were greeted with a smile and a wave by our buddy, bass player Gabo Gonzalez. After dinner, drinks, and dancing we partied into the night with the band and new friends. Guitarist/band leader, Camilo, whom we had seen perform but never met turns out to be a sweetheart, in spite of his severe Mestizo countenance. 
The new pianist, Argentino Gabriel Palatchi, is a blazing talent and another total sweetheart. Crazy eastern Washington state gringa, Margo, Belgian Karin, and drummer Ramon completed the all-star party cast. After cigars, Flor de Caña Nicaraguan rum, and much laughter, we said good night about 12:15, which is very late in the wilds of Tulum.
We are relaxing now with our late a.m. cappuccino and contemplating another day, our 24th wedding anniversary, in our favorite spot. Life is good.
Much love,
Fritz
P.s. Chilango is what denizens of Mexico City are called. Our musical pals here are generally Chilango.
FRITZ TRAVEL JOURNAL DAY 1
EDITOR’S NOTE: Frtiz and his wife, Maria, have been coming to ZAMAS for years. This year he copied us on his letters to loved ones and he agreed to let us reprint here for the inside scoop from a seasoned Tulum Traveler. Muchísimas Gracias Fritz!
Hi all,
During the process of preparing for a vacation a part of me always wonders if it’s worth the trouble. The millions of little chores and the mighty schlep and all are a daunting proposition. But I’m here to tell ya: Sí, se vale la pena, and I knew it as soon as the Yucatan’s scrub-jungle came into view through the airplane window.
We departed Walnut Creek at 3:00 Tuesday morn after pulling an all-nighter and rolled into Zamas at 6:00 p.m. local time (4:00 PST). A 13 hour trek but sí, vale la pena. We had concerns that our favorite place might have lost some of its magic, but no worries, all good. The road and bike/pedestrian path are somewhat improved, Dan tells us there are hundreds of new hotel rooms in the area, but Zamas is just getting better. They have a little gelato stand, of all things. And the food is just as good as ever. Famished as we were upon arrival, we ordered guacamole to tide us over until dinner. Antonio, evening manager (one of the beautiful, moon-faced local Mayan staff), bought us strong Margaritas and we were soon ready to face unpacking, a little drunk and very sleep deprived. After bathing and a little nap we had dinner with owner Dan, got caught up on all the Zamas news, and enjoyed the evening’s musical artist, Cooking John, a Minneapolis via Jersey white boy blues finger picker. We split a pizza Margarita and a whole snapper al mojo de ajo. Unbelievably good. Dan tells us that he’s the only restaurateur in the area still serving exclusively fresh fish. Oh yeah, se vale la pena.
ZAMAS Pizza
It’s raining (mostly) softly this morning and I went to get coffee and toast for breakfast in bed. Maria’s reading Tony Boudain’s Kitchen Confidential and it’s time for me to back to the biography of Gabriel García Márquez. Let the chill-a-thon commence, I’m about worn out from my two-thumbs iPhone typing technique.
Much love and hasta pronto,
Fritz