Hugo Mendoza has felt a special connection to the cenotes of the Riviera Maya since he was born. His grandparents, members of one of the founding families of Tulum, own a sprawling rancho in the heart of the Mayan jungle, and it is home to cenotes big and small.
Cenote Dos Ojos is one such swimming hole, and one of the grandest in the Riviera Maya. Enormous in scale, it has a general two-eyed shape, which lends the cenote its name. Hugo, 21, spent his weekends playing in and around Dos Ojos, starting impromptu soccer games by the cenote’s gaped opening.
Having grown up right by the cenote, Hugo’s logical next step was to work there. After a stint as a professional soccer player, Hugo decided to go back to school. Now, he attends university in the evenings and is a Dos Ojos tour guide by day.
When asked what his favorite part of his job is, Hugo replied, “It’s always new to me. Every day when I dive into the water, it’s like I’m doing it for the first time.” That, and he loves to see the delight play across the faces of his guests. “They stand on the edge of the cenote, and the feeling they have is the same as mine—we’re in complete awe together.”

Hugo can be found at Cenote Dos Ojos Monday-Saturday. Set up a tour with him through ZAMAS reception. Happy adventuring!

Hugo taking the plunge!

Cenote… a word that’s hard to pronounce and amazing to explore. Phonetically it’s CEH – NOH – TEH and they’re one of the Yucatan Peninsula’s natural wonders, considered sacred by the Maya. Cenotes are created by vast underground rivers systems that upwell into caves and lush sink holes. They are home to fish, turtles, lilies, stalactites, and stalagmites.

Light beams through the water on a cave dive at Gran Cenote

One of the most popular in our area, the Grand Cenote, is best known for it’s lighting. Divers go deep into the caves following the fluorescent blue-green light of the sun streaming through and across the limestone. The less adventurous can swim around the cenote, peaking into crevasses and tickling fish. On one end of the cenote is a soft sand bank, renowned for it’s exfoliating and smoothing properties. You’ll invariably find a group of ladies (and men) scrubbing their arms with it. The other end boasts a deep cave you can swim, snorkel or dive in. Our suggestion? Grab a mask and swim the whole way around, stopping to caress a purple lily pad or dive down for a stalactite fragment.

Things to know:

Sunscreen is frowned upon here because it kills the flora and fauna. Apply yours an hour in advance for optimal absorption and bring a shirt!

You can dive, snorkel, or just swim about. Equipment rentals are available at the entrance but we recommend renting from a dive shop (there is one on the ZAMAS property) for the best rate.

This is one of the most expensive cenotes to visit (about $9 USD per person), and you’ll soon see why. When you plunge into the invigorating water, you’ll be immediately submerged in a world that is not quite our own. It’s why the Maya performed their rituals here—they didn’t understand how they were born, but they knew the cenotes were definitely supernatural. A must-see in Tulum for travelers of all levels and interests.

Underwater view of the surface of Gran Cenote

The world’s largest fish are as magnificent as a star-studded night in Tulum.  They are called “marokintana” (full of stars) in another fabulous part of the planet.  Innovation used to follow the stars is also used in tracking these gorgeous creatures. http://www.nasa.gov/offices/oct/home/tech_life_animals.html

The distinctive markings of a whale shark identify sharks like a fingerprint.

Star-studded Snout

Whale Shark Feeding

The ZAMAS Family and friends went swimming with the whale sharks two summers ago and fell in love with these gentle giants.  Gliding through the sea with dignity, they are indifferent to the gawking tourists who surround them.  Granted, we kept a respectable distance due to regulations and to trepidations!

Big Fish in the Sea

Whale sharks live in tropical and warm oceans. Every June through September, these sharks are swimming in our seas.  While they are generally solitary creatures, they aggregate seasonally in some places and we are lucky that they come our way.

http://www.wcs.org/saving-wildlife/ocean-giants/whale-shark.aspx

Patricia Bosworth arrived at ZAMAS on a breezy afternoon in December of 2009 and she immediately got to work. She laid out fifteen stacks of paper across her bed, flitting back in forth in front of them. She was thinking.

Ms. Bosworth is a biographer (in addition to being an actress, journalist, producer, and director) and her current subject is none other than Jane Fonda. Some may remember Ms. Fonda as Barbarella, or Hanoi Jane, or the Workout queen. One thing we can all agree on is her ability to transform seamlessly from one persona to another. Every time she becomes someone or something new, she embodies that persona with complete abandon.

What better way to truly dive into such a complex character as Jane Fonda than to have a great massage? When Ms. Bosworth arrived at ZAMAS, her goal was to work a little and play a lot. She did this by booking a massage tailored to her high-stress mood with Maria Luisa in her hotel room. Before toiling the night away, Ms. Bosworth indulged in our fresh fish filet and her signature drink, the vodka tonic.

On her last day, Ms. Bosworth thoroughly enjoyed the Tulum Ruins, as you can see by the photo below. She was especially taken with the feeling of history that permeated the air and the gorgeous ocean vista.

Beautiful day at the Tulum Ruins with Patricia Bosworth

Ms. Bosworth’s book is out in August. It will also be serialized in Vanity Fair in the September issue. For a recent starred review of the upcoming biography, check out http://www.publishersweekly.com/978-0-547-15257-8

In addition to her book on Jane Fonda, she is the author of the acclaimed biographies of Diane Arbus, Montgomery Clift, and Marlon Brando. She currently resides in New York City. Learn more about Patricia Bosworth on her eponymously named website.

Think warm tropical breezes, turquoise water and dancing with syncopated jungle rhythms. This third “Hot Salsa” dance workshop taught by San Francisco instructors Ryan Mead and Sidney Weaverling in Tulum, Mexico promises to be one of the best.

Timba, Cuban style salsa music, has many international influences such as jazz, rock, disco, funk and hip hop, as well as Cuban folklore dance like rumba, guaguancó, bata drumming and the sacred songs of Santería. There are a myriad of fusions in this workshop – San Francisco roots mix with Cuban influences, all with the tropical backdrop of a small Mexican beach town full of bohemian flare and an under–the-radar celebrity scene.

"Mead and Weaverling are well known internationally for their innovative dance instruction."

Mead and Weaverling are leaders in the Cuban Salsa community of the San Francisco Bay Area and well known internationally for their innovative dance instruction and strong emphasis on rhythm and musicality. Exciting dance performers themselves, they have performed at many Cuban salsa congresses in the Casino/Rueda style that is uniquely Cuban. Invigorating and stimulating, it is a high-energy dance where multiple couples change partners in a circle.

Mead and Weaverling have also orchestrated performances at the San Francisco Carnival, bringing dancers of varying backgrounds and levels into a stunning array of fast paced and colorful dance forms. Further depth is added to their performances with Mead’s strong musical background, anchoring their instruction in the music and breaking down the complicated rhythms of Timba. Weaverling’s creative choreography and vibrant dance experience enmeshed in Cuban roots ensures highly technical yet accessible instruction for their students.

ZAMAS is the perfect venue for this dance workshop. With its hip beachfront style on the pristine shores of the Riviera Maya, it has enjoyed an eclectic and international clientele of fashion professionals, artists and actors, families, dot-comers and everyone in between. Owned and operated by two San Francisco natives, Daniel Vallejo McGettigan and Susan Bohlken, ZAMAS has a been a pioneer in bringing quality, live music to Tulum. Bands perform almost nightly during the high season, with many guest artists of international repute, including members of the famous Mexican rock band, Maná, and Hoppo, a new group led by Rubén Albarrán of Café Tacuba. The resident band is led by Camilo Nü who has performed internationally and is currently developing a documentary that follows his journey to discover the under-recognized African and Arabic influences in the roots of Mexican music.

Owner McGettigan is instrumental in bringing these groups to ZAMAS, a job made easy by the location he developed – with the backdrop of the Caribbean Sea, a rising full moon and an open-air stage on the beach, it is not difficult to attract guests to this beautiful locale with music filling the air. It is irresistible.

Every musician appreciates the visual of lively dancing to compliment his sounds; that is the Bohlken side of the equation. Drawn to salsa dancing by a small contingent in the Tulum community, she followed her passion to her hometown of San Francisco. Elated to find clubs in every part of the Bay Area, she quickly met many of the salsa community including Mead and Weaverling. Hence this salsa dance fusion — a mix of Cuban influence and Mexican tropical flare with San Francisco roots — was born.

Hot Salsa Dance Workshop, 16-24 July, ZAMAS Hotel in Tulum Mexico
Instructors Ryan Mead and Sidney Weaverling, teach partnering technique, movement and style with an emphasis on rhythm and musicality. All levels welcome. http://www.ruedaconritmo.com.

ZAMAS is a small beach cabana hotel situated on a strip of the Caribbean coast in Tulum, Mexico. Email: info(at)zamas(dot)com Website: http://www.zamas.com.

Group excursions may include swimming with the whale sharks, snorkeling in the caverns adorned with stalactites and stalagmites, and exploring ancient Mayan Ruins.

As I write this I’m looking out onto the glittering ocean, and watching a woman slather sunscreen on her outstretched body. This is Tulum in the winter and I love it. Last week it got quite chilly- 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Now we’re back to a modest 77 degrees. Yet as we begin to break out our Christmas tunes and decorate our tree with shells and crabs and a few blinking solar lights, I can’t help but think this is the way it ought to be. I haven’t had a cold Christmas since 1992, and I’m proud of it. I must admit though, I am dreaming of a white Christmas- white sands, white clouds, and a delicious, frosty-white piña colada…

For those who may be in the area and wish to celebrate this special season with us at ZAMAS, check out our Noche Buena menu (served on Dec 24). Reservations are recommended (info@zamas.com). And in the interest of being PC:

Happy Chrismakwanzukkah to all.

I hate the trip from the Cancún airport almost as much as I hate having to wake up at 4 am (let’s be honest I don’t even go to sleep) to make the flight from SF. After traveling 9 hours and eating crappy airport food–or worse–plane food, the last thing I want to do is get in a car and drive an hour and a half to Tulúm, only to arrive right at mosquito hour. (Little known fun fact, only female mosquitoes bite us. The males feed on nectar, while the females require blood to lay eggs*).

But let me be the first to say I feel a little wary about the prospect of an airport in Tulúm. And yet the Tulúm airport was finally approved this year, an event that was punctuated by a visit from the Mexican president, Felipe Calderón. Of course I would love to step off the plane and be 20 minutes from home, but the actual implications of the airport make me hesitate to jump for joy.

First of all, they plan to build the airport on top of the Riviera Maya’s vast underground waterway and mangrove system–meaning that if ever there were a lot of rain the airport could sink into the ground. And, let’s face it, sometimes there IS a lot of rain. And not to mention the damage it will cause to the habitat it lands (pun intended) on.

An airport in Tulúm means more tourists than we have ever imagined. Even Playa del Carmen doesn’t have an airport. Clearly someone has big plans for Tulúm– bigger, maybe, than Cancún. The little town of 6,000 my family moved to 18 years ago is all grown up. So now we sit and wait. Maybe the airport will be built in Mexican time– i.e., years from now. But maybe it’ll be up and running sooner than we know. It’ll bring people and money to our humble home. The economy will flourish and cultures will become further enmeshed. But in doing so will it change our home into something we might not recognize?

*Mosquito facts courtesy of Wikipedia. Photo courtesy of Trip Advisor

The average guest staying at ZAMAS might go his or her whole visit without meeting Mara Andrade. But you might have noticed the General Manager sitting at her computer, taking calls, and greeting vendors and merchants; essentially, making ZAMAS run. But who is Mara? To get to know this delightful lady better, read on.

Name: Mara Andrade

Years working at ZAMAS: 2.5

Age: hell no! (editor’s note: she’s not very old)

Hometown: Mexico City, Distrito Federal

Siblings: Paulina and Silvia

Romantic status: it’s top secret

Golf Handicap: 18 (her family is really into golf)

Favorite drink: whiskey on the rocks

Favorite bar: 307 (Belongs to her friend Citlalli)

Favorite thing to do on her day off: go to the Sian Ka’an Biosphere with Maalix (her beloved dog, pronounced Ma-Lish) and Jerome (the man who comes second to the dog). And sleep!

Favorite ZAMAS dish: Tostadas a la Susana

Favorite store to shop at in Tulúm: Shalom- there’s one across the street from ZAMAS and one in town

Tulúm’s best kept secret: swimming with the turtles at Punta Solimán

Claim to fame: member of the former Tulúm Wine Club

Favorite TV show: it’s a toss-up– The Sopranos or Seinfeld

Thing she wants her fans to know about her: fans? I have fans?

This week, while visiting Southern California, I pushed myself. First, I tried surfing. It was awesome. There is nothing more exhilarating than standing up while a wave propels you forward. I can’t wait to practice and actually ride a wave bigger than 2 feet. Unfortunately, where we are in Tulúm, there aren’t great waves for riding, and certainly not year-round. Which is why I have become obsessed with… (drumroll please)… stand up paddle boarding.

It’s easy. It’s fun! It’s a great workout because your whole body is engaged- core, legs, arms. And the best part, according to Vince Shay (who took us out): you can do it on flat water and you can do it on waves (real daredevils surf with these mammoth boards). Which is perfect for us because we don’t often have surfing waves at ZAMAS, but rare is the day that the water is completely flat. So, with my insistence, we hope to have at least one paddle board at ZAMAS in the next year. We just have to figure out how to get the 11-foot board through Customs!

If you’re ready to feel like an ancient tribe member cruising the glistening coast of Tulúm (or anywhere else), I recommend you try stand up paddle boarding ASAP. But be sure to wear lots of sunscreen to protect from those harmful rays. And check Vince and his crew out  when you’re in the San Luis Obispo area at

http://www.slocoastkayaks.com/

Happy paddling!

It’s summertime and all this writer can think about are the fun, non-work activities she can enjoy without ever leaving Tulúm.

There are the obvious contenders: the beaches, the sun, and the Mayan ruins. But there are many specific activities we at ZAMAS enjoy in our downtime.

Cenotes

Of these cave-like freshwater swimming holes our favorites are Escondido (across the street from Cenote Cristal, this hidden treasure is colorful and ice-cold, the perfect place to dive into on a hot summer afternoon), Grand Cenote (a classic, good for snorkeling and diving and exploring), and Zazil-Ha (a little further up the highway to Coba than the Grand, this cenote is all about family fun, complete with inner tube rentals!)

Cenote Escondido

Beaches

Paraíso (and its neighboring beaches) is good for sun-bathing and people-watching. Its waters are as clear blue as its sands are fine and beige. We also love to walk from ZAMAS headed south, crossing Maya Tulúm and continuing until we get tired and return home for a happy hour margarita.

Bibi walks on Paraíso beach, aptly called paradise, in my opinion

Food

When we leave ZAMAS to eat elsewhere, we choose our destination wisely. If we are not in town for fabulous German breakfasts at Azafran, then we are getting ice cream at David’s Gelateria or popsicles at La Flor de Michoacan, with an occasional freshly-made tamal (be advised, this tamale stand, located on the right-hand side of town, is only open from 3 pm onward)

Stopping by for an afternoon snack at the tamale stand

Ruins

While the Tulúm ruins may not be the most impressive of the Mexican ruins, they are the only ruins on the water. Which means you can explore them FROM the water on a boat tour! (Of course, you can go the traditional route and walk through the ruins. We recommend doing so in the early morning or late afternoon, to avoid the worst heat)

The view of El Mirador from the water

Nightlife

On a warm balmy evening in late July it can be quite fun to venture into town to go to Divino Paraíso, which almost always features live music or a DJ. Or Mayamoon Cafe, where locals and tourists mingle. If you really want to have the Tulúm experience, pay 30 pesos and go to El Coloso Disco Bar and boogie down with the locals. And on Friday nights, Mezzanine throws a moonlit party on a balcony overlooking the sea. And after midnight there’s always an LSD-inspired show to vamp up the crowd

The show at Mezzanine on Friday night

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