Monthly Archives: May 2010

FRITZ TRAVEL JOURNAL DAY 7 – “It’s not a blog…it’s an iPhone travelogue.”

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EDITOR’S NOTE:  Frtiz and his wife, Maria, have been coming to ZAMAS for years.  This year he copied us on his letters to loved ones and he agreed to let us reprint here for the inside scoop from a seasoned Tulum Traveler.  Muchísimas Gracias Fritz!

Cruising at 34,000 feet and still in Zamas heaven. It’s 5:00 and we just polished off our steak torta and empanadas de papa y queso, ordered with breakfast #2 at 11:30 this morning. The 4″ crescents of pastry-wrapped cheesy-potatoey goodness came with a thick pumpkin- colored dipping sauce, presumably achiote. Pansa llena, corazon contento. Rather than suffer the heinous buzz-kill of airline food, years ago we discovered the strategy of ¡Que Fresco! take out on getaway day.

Last night the party was on. For once, we almost overate, enjoying the night’s special, Laura’s killer jicama salad, old reliable pizza Margherita, and a whole fish, grilled al mojo de ajo.

Jimaca Salad

We had to share the perfect fish with new friends Giovanni and Tatiana, stylish young New Yorkers. He’s got movie-star looks and Colombian, rapid-fire Spanish to go with perfect English.  Siberian immigrant Tatiana says that she learned her flawless New Yawk-ese as a defense mechanism against the bitches-from-hell at the private high school in which her father placed her. The tender slender was resplendent in short-short shorts, high-high heels and miles of leg in between. Dan knows all the cool kids. And they are sweethearts to boot.

Camilo Nu brought in a new musician, trombonist Ray David from salsa star Willie Colon’s band, upping the ante considerably. Apparently he works with them whenever he is available, as he knows the material quite well. The ‘bone reinforces the Latin Jazz element of the band’s Flamenco fusion, which has already been enhanced by Chucho Valdez’ student, pianist Gabriel from Argentina. They played late and we partied later, closing the evening with jazz on the iPod dock and sad good-byes at our crib. We have grown close to all the band members, especially our adopted sobrino Gabriel and brother bass player Gabo. I was able to sit in on bass two different nights with Gaby and Gabo’s Latin Jazz trio, kickin’ the funk on Herbie’s “Chameleon” both times.  Drummer Angel (El Panda) and I locked in pretty damn good, IMHO. At least good enough that the Carioca bartendress at Luna Maya refused to let me pay for our Flor de Caña.

Dan tells us that we lucked out on the weather as this has been a very cool winter in The Yucatan. I had been concerned by Gabo’s Facebook postings about penguins in Tulum  We got warm days and cool nights that many would consider perfect, but we would have preferred it a little warmer. The in-room ceiling fans were severely under-utilized. The mild weather at least eased the packing and schlepping of departure day. No complaints here, though, unlike the shivering locals who are totally unprepared for anything below 60 degrees F.  Dice mi Gabi “Está haciendo un friazo, fijaté”.

It’s not a blog… it’s an iPhone travelogue.

This will be the last of my notes on our vacation. A few people have called it a blog, but I have been resisting that terminology, which implies a desire for a wide audience. We are only hoping to share the fun and happiness of our experience, in what turned out to be the best vacation ever, with family, who know much of what we speak, and with you other dear ones who haven’t had that good fortune. Thanks for reading. Oh, yeah, and thanks to Susana and Dan for their amazing creation, to Dan our endearingly brusque perfect host, and to their wonderful staff. As the Duke said “We love you madly”.

Maria y Fritz en ZAMAS

FRITZ TRAVEL JOURNAL DAY 6

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Diva and Driftwood

EDITOR’S NOTE:  Frtiz and his wife, Maria, have been coming to ZAMAS for years.  This year he copied us on his letters to loved ones and he agreed to let us reprint here for the inside scoop from a seasoned Tulum Traveler.  Muchísimas Gracias Fritz!

Bueno, familia,

The jaunt down the coast was an absolute, utter success. Dan drove us 20 minutes south into the Sian Ka’an Biosphere, all the while regaling us with tales of who owns this place or that and what they’ve gone through to build there. The area is nominally parkland and the complexities of ownership and development in Mexico are daunting to say the least. After first missing the gate, we soon arrived at their property, opening the chained palm thatch gate and parking just within. From there a trail headed seaward, winding for a couple hundred yards through the jungle and culminating at the beach. The finest beach I’ve ever seen.

Sian Ka'an Reserve Beach

Sparkling white sand, clear blue-green water, and nobody in sight. The beach goes on forever. The sand slopes gently, smoothly into the sea and then continues uninterrupted to the depths. There are no rocks nor coral nor seaweed, just our own private playground for completely stress free frolicking.

Caribbean Sea in the Reserve

We followed Dan’s lead as he took off down the beach for his constitutional hike for a kilometer or so. Dan stopped to stretch at a convenient driftwood bench and we jumped into the Caribe. Nice. Next we proceeded as far as Yvette Mimieux’s grand property and then returned to the dueño’s place. He says that he hopes to get building permits in place soon and described the low impact plans he has for a casita there. Thank you, Dan, for sharing this special place. This has been a terrific vacation and today was the best day yet.

FRITZ TRAVEL JOURNAL DAY 5

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EDITOR’S NOTE:  Frtiz and his wife, Maria, have been coming to ZAMAS for years.  This year he copied us on his letters to loved ones and he agreed to let us reprint here for the inside scoop from a seasoned Tulum Traveler.  Muchísimas Gracias Fritz!

Yesterday it occurred to me that there is a single, specific reason that I am so very comfortable in Tulum. It’s a re-dux of early ’seventies Santa Cruz, my salad days. At that time SC was an organic, hippie halcyon, full of friendly, healthy young women who threw my already active libido into overdrive. The town featured surfers, musicians, all manner of artists, organic gardeners, and seekers. 

Governor Reagan had not yet closed the state’s mental hospitals, turning Pacific Avenue into another world altogether. It was Tulum foretold. I’ve seen more white-boy dreadlocks in a week here than in a year in Walnut Creek.  It’s not a bad thing. This place is magnet for yoga, art, massage, exercise, and all kinds of creative endeavor and entrepreneurship in addition to being the loveliest spot we know. As a bonus, it’s the tropics, so the hippies bathe regularly, a vast improvement upon their northern brethren.

But it also has something that old Santa Cruz lacked: Mexican soul. 

The mestizo culture, Mayan, Aztecan, Hispanic, passionate, profound, and proud is felt everywhere, in the Mayan locals and in the immigrants from other parts of the republic. It’s felt in waiters, shop keepers, entertainers, dive-guides, and passers-by. The warmth is not just the climate, it’s the culture.

As to matters culinary: yesterday chef Laura roasted cochita pibil (Yucatan suckling pig) all day in the domed pizza oven.

Cochinita Pibil w/ Greens & Pickled Onions

 Low and slow, as God intended when He created barbeque. By noon the fragrance was beguiling, by dinner, intoxicating. Served with pickled onions, sautéed greens, and corn tortillas, it made me a happy boy indeed.

Beach report: yesterday was overcast and windy, we had the whole beach to ourselves for the morning workout. Mother Ocean slapped around for 20 minutes and we bailed. Today: nice, Surf’s up, by Caribe standards, but glassy. Great swim.

Dan has been wanting to show us his new beach property 20 minutes down the coastal road. We are outta here.