Monthly Archives: April 2010

FRITZ TRAVEL JOURNAL DAY 4

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EDITOR’S NOTE:  Frtiz and his wife, Maria, have been coming to ZAMAS for years.  This year he copied us on his letters to loved ones and he agreed to let us reprint here for the inside scoop from a seasoned Tulum Traveler.  Muchísimas Gracias Fritz!

Today is the first of our trip with full sunshine; Tulum so far having taken pity on my poor, carcinoma-prone gringo hide. We finished our morning salt-water immersion therapy session too late to enjoy the breakfast menu but are anxiously awaiting our torta de pollo as we tuck into melon water and guacamole…. Worth the wait, the sandwich is strips of grilled chicken on a toasted ciabatta roll with avocado, onions, tomato, chile, and some other succulent mystery flavor.

Last night the party started with Latin jazz at Zamas and continued in town. Dan hosted dinner for us and a few other guests, most notably Samantha, our new pal. Recently of NYC,  this class of 2008 U of ‘Zona grad has found herself at loose ends when her month-old job at a local yoga resort suddenly vaporized. Dan set her up with lodging while she gets her bearings. Sensing, I suspect, a kindred spirit in Maria, she visited with us last night and joined us, splashing in the sea, this morning. What a doll, a Greek-Lebanese brunette with an unequivocal laugh and sharp intelligence to go with her great looks. If anyone can make it in Tulum with very limited Spanish it will be she.

Elise Maria Samantha at ZAMAS

 

We are fixin’ to jump back into our books, García Márquez’ biography is pretty thick but enormously engaging.

Besos pa’ todos,

Fritz

FRITZ TRAVEL JOURNAL DAY 3

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EDITOR’S NOTE:  Frtiz and his wife, Maria, have been coming to ZAMAS for years.  This year he copied us on his letters to loved ones and he agreed to let us reprint here for the inside scoop from a seasoned Tulum Traveler.  Muchísimas Gracias Fritz!

Hi everybody,

Yesterday turned a little cooler, but still nice for swimming and the sea was very calm, one of the few days in which to break out the snorkel gear for use on the Zamas beach. We did so and wore ourselves right out, what with recovery from the previous evening’s festivities still in process.

Our days have started with my schlep to the restaurant for strong coffee to-go, that we enjoy on our deck with tropical fruit and terrific Mexican pastries, scored the previous afternoon in town. 

After a little workout and shower, we make it to ¡Que Fresco! (the hotel’s restaurant) for breakfast #2. As always, the food is wonderful. Simple, clean flavors derived from impeccably fresh ingredients. As the Italians say, a seafood meal requires that your dinner had breakfast that day. Last night’s snapper filet was marvelous and this morning’s tomato and avocado omelet was even better, with black beans, perfect little chunks of succulent potatoes, corn tortillas, and the ubiquitous salsa fresca: tomatoes, onions, serrano chiles, and parsley. Spiced with judicious droplets of blazing hot salsa habanera, it made me a very happy boy.Salsa Fresca y Salsa Habanero

We’re looking forward to tonight’s band: Gabriel Palatchi’s Latin-jazz 

group, featuring three of the sidemen from Camilo Nu. The day awaits.  

La fiesta continua.

Abrazos,

Fritz

FRITZ TRAVEL JOURNAL DAY 2

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Buenos días,
The first day of our time in Tulum was an unqualified success. Cosmic events that require more discussion than I am capable of in this space and terrestrial ones as well filled our hearts with joy. Lots of exercise in our room and on the beach, a jaunt into town, and great company in our post-prandial festivities got our stay at Zamas off to a wonderful start. The day started off rainy, then cloudy, and then, 20 minutes into our beach time, mostly sunny and warm. After a provisions run, we settled in for the evening at Zamas. At Maria’s request, Dan had said that they would be offering lobster that evening and, served with garlic, it was terrific. Featured musical artist was Camilo Nu, a flamenco/jazz/groove jam band. As soon as we arrived at the restaurant we were greeted with a smile and a wave by our buddy, bass player Gabo Gonzalez. After dinner, drinks, and dancing we partied into the night with the band and new friends. Guitarist/band leader, Camilo, whom we had seen perform but never met turns out to be a sweetheart, in spite of his severe Mestizo countenance. The new pianist, Argentino Gabriel Palatchi, is a blazing talent and another total sweetheart. Crazy eastern Washington state gringa, Margo, Belgian Karin, and drummer Ramon completed the all-star party cast. After cigars, Flor de Caña Nicaraguan rum, and much laughter, we said good night about 12:15, which is very late in the wilds of Tulum.

We are relaxing now with our late a.m. cappuccino and contemplating another day, our 24th wedding anniversary, in our favorite spot. Life is good.

Much love,

Fritz

P.s. Chilango is what denizens of Mexico City are called. Our musical pals here are generally Chilango.

FRITZ TRAVEL JOURNAL DAY 1

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FRITZ TRAVEL JOURNAL DAY 1

EDITOR’S NOTE:  Frtiz and his wife, Maria, have been coming to ZAMAS for years.  This year he copied us on his letters to loved ones and he agreed to let us reprint here for the inside scoop from a seasoned Tulum Traveler.  Muchísimas Gracias Fritz!

Hi all,
During the process of preparing for a vacation a part of me always wonders if it’s worth the trouble. The millions of little chores and the mighty schlep and all are a daunting proposition. But I’m here to tell ya: Sí, se vale la pena, and I knew it as soon as the Yucatan’s scrub-jungle came into view through the airplane window.

We departed Walnut Creek at 3:00 Tuesday morn after pulling an all-nighter and rolled into Zamas at 6:00 p.m. local time (4:00 PST). A 13 hour trek but sí, vale la pena.  We had concerns that our favorite place might have lost some of its magic, but no worries, all good. The road and bike/pedestrian path are somewhat improved, Dan tells us there are hundreds of new hotel rooms in the area, but Zamas is just getting better. They have a little gelato stand, of all things. And the food is just as good as ever. Famished as we were upon arrival, we ordered guacamole to tide us over until dinner. Antonio, evening manager (one of the beautiful, moon-faced local Mayan staff), bought us strong Margaritas and we were soon ready to face unpacking, a little drunk and very sleep deprived. After bathing and a little nap we had dinner with owner Dan, got caught up on all the Zamas news, and enjoyed the evening’s musical artist, Cooking John, a Minneapolis via Jersey white boy blues finger picker.  We split a pizza Margarita and a whole snapper al mojo de ajo. Unbelievably good. Dan tells us that he’s the only restaurateur in the area still serving exclusively fresh fish. Oh yeah, se vale la pena.

zamas pizza

ZAMAS Pizza

It’s raining (mostly) softly this morning and I went to get coffee and toast for  breakfast in bed. Maria’s reading Tony Boudain’s Kitchen Confidential and it’s time for me to back to the biography of Gabriel García Márquez. Let the chill-a-thon commence, I’m about worn out from my two-thumbs iPhone typing technique.

Much love and hasta pronto,

Fritz